Situated on the island of Cheung Chau (長洲島), just a short ferry ride from Central Hong Kong, Pak Tai Temple (北帝廟) is renowned for hosting the vibrant Bun Festival (包節), celebrated annually on the 5th and 9th days of the 4th lunar month (usually in April or early May).
Also known as the Palace of Jade Void (玉虛宮), Pak Tai Temple is a Grade I Historic Building in Hong Kong and offers a less crowded, more intimate experience compared to other well-known religious sites like Lantau Island’s Big Buddha, Wong Tai Sin Temple in Kowloon, or the Man Mo Temple on Hong Kong Island. Off the radar for many tourists, Pak Tai Temple is a cultural gem worth exploring.
The Legend of Pak Tai: Guardian of the Dark Heavens
The history of Pak Tai Temple dates back to 1777, when a severe plague devastated Cheung Chau and its surrounding islands. A fisherman from Huizhou brought a statue of the god Pak Tai (北帝), and soon after, the pestilence ceased. Revered as the “Emperor of the North,” Pak Tai is a powerful Taoist deity known for his ability to control the elements and expel evil forces. His title, Superior Ruler of the Dark Heavens (玄天上帝), reflects his formidable power.
The temple was completed in 1783 in honor of Pak Tai. It faces the southwest, and the nearby rocky island of Shek Kwu Chau (石鼓洲) is believed to act as a barrier, protecting the temple from evil spirits. Inside, the statue of Pak Tai is flanked by the fierce generals Heng and Ha (哼哈二將), who are known for their supernatural abilities to emit deadly rays and poisonous gases.
While Pak Tai is the primary deity of the temple, it also houses statues of Guanyin (觀音), the Goddess of Mercy, Tin Hau (天后), the goddess of seafarers, and the Sixty Gods of Time (太歲), who are significant in Taoist beliefs.
The temple’s architecture, with its ear-shaped roof, intricate wood carvings, and colorful dragon sculptures, represents the finest examples of Lingnan (嶺南) architecture, making it a must-see cultural treasure in Hong Kong.
The Bun Festival (包節): A Celebration of Tradition
The Bun Festival traces its origins to the same plague that led to the construction of the temple. In 1894, another plague ravaged the island, causing numerous deaths. Legend has it that a native of Chaozhou, possessed by the spirit of Pak Tai, instructed the people to create a throne with upward-facing knives. The possessed individual sat on this dangerous chair and was paraded through the village, visiting each home. Miraculously, the knives caused no harm, and the plague left the island.
This ritual became the foundation of the Bun Festival, also known as Ta Chiu (打醮), a Taoist festival dedicated to expelling evil spirits. Today, the festival is celebrated with parades, colorful ceremonies, and the famous bun towers, attracting visitors from all over the world.
How to Get There
To visit Pak Tai Temple, take a ferry from Central Ferry Piers to Cheung Chau, which departs every 30 minutes. The temple is only a 10-minute walk from the Cheung Chau ferry pier, making it easily accessible for a day trip.
Whether you’re drawn to the temple’s spiritual significance, its stunning architecture, or the lively Bun Festival, Pak Tai Temple offers a unique cultural experience on the peaceful island of Cheung Chau.
